Planning Our Trip
When deciding where Collin and I should vacation for our first trip following Italy’s Covid-19 travel restrictions, we both knew we wanted to go somewhere relaxing. Having been quarantined for nearly 6 months, a beach sounded dreamy! We looked into Italy’s many beaches before discovering the more private, locals’ favorite, Isola de Elba (Island of Elba).
The Island was perfect for us! Located off the coast of Tuscany, Elba quickly became a hidden gem in my pocket. Most people travel to Amalfi Coast when given the chance. And although we had the opportunity, we have done Amalfi multiple times and wanted something more private, quiet, and secluded.
Transportation to Elba
The Train
We decided to take work off Friday since our travel to get to Elba would be almost 10 hours. To us, it was worth it. We needed to get out of our region for once.
Our tickets were purchased through ‘Trainline‘, which we found 1st class seats on Trenitalia for under Є150. The seats and table were larger, with charging stations and Wifi available. We were treated with snacks, drinks, and alcohol for the duration of the trip.
Our itinerary had us leaving Arona early Friday morning at 7:15am, connecting in Milano, Milano to Pisa, and Pisa to Piombino before taking a ferry to Ebla.
Once stopped in Milano, we head to our preferred cafe for cappuccinos and croissants within the train station.
Luckily, we had a 2 hour layover in Pisa, which gave us just enough time to catch a cab located outside the train terminal, drive 2 km to the Leaning Tower of Pisa to eat a panino in the garden, before returning back to the station for our next train out.
With Toremar, we had an easy time entering the boat. There were stairs to the side of the boat with crew members directing us where to go. Once inside, we were welcomed with storage options for our luggage.
The Ferry
To get to Elba, you must take a ferry from Piombino to the port of Portoferraio, which is the main port of the island. We took Blu Navy on the way to Portoferraio, and Toremar on the way from Portoferraio. It should be noted that Toremar is the far better fairy option! I emphasize this times 1000! Toremar felt like we were walking onto a cruise ship. You can see all ferry options and pricing through Direct Ferries.
There was a private work area for business folks, multiple rooms with different seating options, large areas for sitting on the boat deck, and a nice bar with a great selection of food and alcohol. The ferry was in better condition overall, with arcade-like carpeting, LED lighting, TVs and entertainment. It was more updated and more “grand” in my opinion.
On the other hand, our experience with Blu Navy was stressful and extremely disappointing. There were little to no crew members to guide us which made it confusing to navigate our way onto the boat. With little to no signs indicating where to go, we ended up having to carry our luggage up small, cramped stairs, which was very difficult for me. By the time we got up the stairs, we were completely lost. The boat was more run down, few TVs, one large open plan with the same seating throughout, and the only seating options for the boat deck were a few chairs along the sides of the boat.
We were happy to arrive in Portoferraio by 4:30pm to get to our hotel.
The Island of Elba
Elba Beaches
In order to pick which hotel to stay at, Collin and I needed to pick what beaches we wanted to visit. There are over 70 beaches to chose from on Elba. There were public and private beaches, white sand and grey sand beaches, pebbles and rock beaches…so many beaches.
We used Info Elba to do our research which was so helpful when learning what side of the island has the most wind, cliffs, hiking routes and entertainment. We knew we wanted a more private beach, with few families and children, near the beautiful white cliffs.
There were 3 beaches near our hotel to chose from. Le Ghiaie, Capo Bianco, and Padulella Beach. Padulella Beach was located just 500 m (a 7 min walk) from our hotel. Padulella Beach had a bar that served cocktail, cold drinks and small bites just inches from the shore.
Unfortunately, when we had visited in May of 2021, they were closed for renovations. Le Ghiaie had multiple restaurants to choose from and Capo Bianco seemed like a larger, more public beach in the event we wanted to experience that setting. We decided we would visit each since they were all in close proximity to the hotel we were staying.
The Hotel
We stayed at Hotel Acquamarina, located 1 km (a 15 minute walk) from the port. I thought I would be fine to walk the distance. Collin was carrying our suitcases and I had my beach bag filled with travel accessories, laptop and whatever else I filled it with for easy access.
And then there was a large hill. It was hot. May around 70-80 degrees, walking up a large hill with heavy luggage was not the dream haha. We took many stops to get to the top as it was our first experience traveling in months with luggage, but we eventually made it.
There were a few folks we recognized from the ferry ride over also staying at the hotel. They all brought their cars…things to keep in mind for next time as the ferries have options for car transport.
The hotel staff was so kind and professional. They had a beautiful teal-tiled, large white windowed restaurant with a large balcony overlooking the water. It was the same view from our balcony.
Across the entryway was a small cafe and wine bar available to guests. We checked in with our passports, got the keys and were escorted to the elevators up to our room. Masks were still required throughout the common areas with multiple hand sanitizing stations.
Other hotels we considered staying at included:
Hotel Alma – cheaper option but still centrally located, minutes from the beach by walk
Hotel Corallo – bed and breakfast option on the west side of the island and more secluded
Agriturismo Galenzana – more expensive, farmhouse option with private garden, deck, and patio overlooking water
Day 1 in Elba
Sunrise
I am an early riser when it comes to waking up on vacation. Collin loves to sleep in. The first morning of our stay I got up early enough to watch the sunrise from our hotel balcony come over the white cliffs surrounding the beach. It was beautiful.
I chugged one of those extra large water bottles to hydrate for my day in the sun. I was out there from 4:30am to 7:00am watching the sunrise and listening to the birds chirping. The birds were so loud. It was just me, the birds, and the sunrise and it was perfection. I listened and sat quiet, taking in the nature surrounding me.
I decided at that moment that watching the sunrise would be a ‘must’ for me on all our future trips. It was the present moment I was experiencing.
Once Collin was awake, we went down to the restaurant foyer for breakfast. One of the staff members noticed us come into the dining hall. She made us aware of what was served and told us if we wanted scrambled eggs or an omelette that she would make some for us. I hadn’t remembered the last time I had eggs for breakfast.
We thanked her and headed to the food. Breakfast was buffet style with meats, cheeses, veggies, and fruits from across the island, along with cereals, yogurt parfaits, croissants and pastries.
The staff had cleaned and sanitized each table and chairs after before and after each guest and I was very happy to know they were practicing good health and safety precautions. We had a hearty selection of juices and coffees, made from a high end cafe machine, my cappuccino was perfect.
Beach o’clock
We arrived at Padulella Beach early, by 9:30am. There was no one at the beach! Prior to our trip, we went to Decathlon (a sports and outdoor recreational store) for matching beach towels, snorkeling gear, water shoes, and beach accessories. We chose a spot and laid our new beach towels down. Listening to the beach waves hit the rocks and trickle up to reach our toes was everything we could have asked for.
Collin helped me apply my super thick sunscreen to my shoulders and low back. I turned and helped him as well. If I got too hot I took a dive into the water. The water was ombred crystal blue and deep blue in layers. It was just cold enough to dip my entire head under and not freeze. The water was rejuvenating. I could feel the salt on my face as I arose from the salt water.
Lunch
For lunch, we ventured over to Le Ghiaie Beach and eat at La Bussola. In my opinion, La Bussola had the largest menu and a variety of Italian foods and wines. We ordered a bottle of Vermentino, one of the staple wines from the Tuscany region, I had Mussels with spagetthi and Collin had a pizza.
The food was amazing and the view looked over the water again. We had brought our beach bag and planned to stay at Le Ghiaie for the remainder of the day. However, Collin really enjoyed how quiet and private Padulella was. So much so, that he insisted we go back. I easily agreed…we found our beach and we didn’t want to leave! We stopped in a bar for 2 large Italian beers (Birra Moretti) in plastic cups before making our return to Padulella.
Dinner
For Dinner the first night, we ate at Teatro Bistro and Wine Bar, which was located 1.5 km (a 22 min walk) from our hotel. Teatro Bistro was further than we would have liked to walk, but their menu and reviews won our decision to make the walk. It was the restaurant’s first night open in months since the Covid-19 restrictions.
They were so happy to have us and many locals returned to the restaurant to celebrate their reopening. We had our choice of seating outside under the covered balcony, or across the street in a private piazza looking over the water, under the stars. We went with the piazza an had a candle lit dinner.
I had a vegetable appetizer, ravioli for my first course, and the crepe for my second course. Collin had the octopus appetizer, ragu for the first course, and swordfish for his second course. We split the Aleatico tiramisu for dessert.
*The ragu and tiramisu were to die for! The best out of all our plates. Collin said it was the best ragu he’s ever had so far.
Day 2 in Elba
Shopping
The next morning I watched the sunrise again. We had breakfast downstairs before going shopping in Piazza Virgilio. There were cute shops, cafes, and restaurants all along the Pier. I really enjoy walking through the towns we visit. By window shopping, I discover treasures from the local businesses.
This trip, I found the best smelling perfume on this island. Once I smelt it I knew it would be my ‘new scent’. Acqua Dell Elba, the water of Elba it was called. It came in a beautifully sleek, slender bottle and the acqua blue color resembled the water from the island. The smell is elegant, light, and aromatic. I loved it.
Aperitif
On our second night, we stopped into Ruggeri, a local wine and deli shop, for aperitif before dinner. We had planned to go to Osteria Pepenero for dinner but ended up having so much fun that we stayed all night, skipping dinner, lol. That, and…the restaurant was located near Teatro Bistro and Wine Bar and I was in heels.
I remembered how long the walk was from Teatro to our hotel the night before and hesitant, Collin and I decided maybe it was best to stay where we were. After all, we had a good table along the street, enjoyed the wine, and it was the shortest walk back to the hotel. When the owner was made aware we were staying and skipping dinner, he brought us multiple trays of aperitif and some specially-made small foods to try. He was very happy to accomodate us until closing at 10:00pm.
Although I hated the thought of not going to dinner, I had to listen to my body. I was just starting to adjust to traveling again and after an entire day in the sun on the beach, plus the 9 hours of travel the day before, it was safest to stay put. Unfortunately, this is the kind of sacrifices Collin and I have to make occasionally. We have to think ahead when it comes to walking home after a long day…sometimes I can do it and some days I can’t.
We bought a few bottles of Aleatico dell’Elba DOCG and Elba Vermentino from his store, along with spiced salami from the region.
Things to do
Some things we had lined up to do but decided against them to enjoy the beach were as follows:
Napoleon’s Villas Museum & Tour
Napoleon Bonaparte, the 1800s emperor of France was exiled to the island of Elba in 1814. In 1815, he managed to escape his banishment and return to Paris.
You can tour the Villas he inhibited during his stay as well as walk in his “footsteps” of his most familiar places to visit.
Hiking
I originally wanted to hike Monte Capanne, the highest peak of the island with breathtaking views overlooking the city and Ligurian/Tyrrhenian seas. After realizing it was a 15.8 km hike with 950 m in elevation, we thought we should something more aligned with our experience, like Monte Madonna del Monte.
The furthest I had hiked was 8.5 km with 586 m in elevation at the time and needed to gauge realistically want I could do safely. The sunrise from our hotel balcony was magnificent, I can only image what it would be like from the top of this mountain.
Wine Tastings
A wine tasting at Tenuta La Chiusa. They offered Є8 tastings per tasting of wine. They are home to some of the famous Elba and Tuscany wines, to include Aleatico Dell’Elba DOCG, Elba Ansonica DOC, and Vermentino. It was said Napoleon visited this vineyard on multiple accounts. The vineyard has a beautiful garden and terrace.
Recommendations
Trip Duration
Our 3 days were not enough time in Elba. We had only been to 2 beaches and barely saw the island. I think you could spend a week there and still not see enough of its beauty. Next time we go, Collin and I agreed 4 days minimum to combat the 2 days of travel.
Transportation
Depending where you are coming from, I would recommend bringing or renting car to Elba. The island is so big that it would help you get around easily. You could easily go from one side of the island to another with a car rather than waiting on public transportation. Also available near the port are motor scooters to rent from Twn Car, Scooter, and Bike Rental. Those would have been a great idea too.
Research
Do your research! Info Elba was extremely helpful when deciding what beaches we wanted to visit. They have an interactive map of the island’s beaches making it easy to understand where each is located. Their website also offers information on additional excursions, transportation, and recommendations.
Overall
The island of Elba is a fantastic choice for a vacation to the beach. With a wide variety of beaches, you are sure to find one that fits your needs. It is also extremely affordable and less crowded when compared to other beaches in South Italy and the people are so nice! The service we received from the hotel, restaurants, bars, and shops was impeccable. Everyone was kind and welcoming to us. We really enjoyed our trip and hope to be back again soon!
Enjoy!!
The map ID you have entered does not exist. Please enter a map ID that exists.
